Definition and Types of Knitted Fabrics Produced in Knitting Mills

We know that fabrics are produced from a set of
warp or weft yarn. Weaving and knitting is
different for the interlacing techniques of yarn. In
weaving it needs warp and weft yarn for produce
woven fabric but in knitting, fabrics are produced
from a series of yarn in warp or weft directions.
Knitting techniques can be defined as follow.
The processes in which fabrics are produced by
set of connect loops from a series of yarns in
warp or weft direction is defined as knitting.
Different knitting machines are use to perform
this techniques. Mainly two types of knitted
fabrics are produced. They are as follow:
Warp knitted fabrics : In a warp knitted structure,
each loop in the horizontal direction is made from
different thread and the number of thread used to
produce such a fabric is at least equal to the
numbers of loops in horizontal row.
Weft knitted fabrics: A horizontal row of loops
can be made using one thread runs in horizontal
direction. The fabric structure is different from
one from another. Weft knitted fabrics are widely
use.
In our daily life, we use different knitted fabrics.
Depending on the fabrics design knitted fabrics
can be as follow:
Single Jersey
1. Plain Single Jersey
2. Single Jersey with Lycra
3. Single Lacoste
4. Double Lacoste
5. Single Pique
6. Double Pique
7. Polo Pique
8. French Terry
9. Terry with Lycra
10. Fleece
11. Fleece with Lycra
Double Jersey
Rib Fabric
1. 1×1 Rib
2. 2×1 Rib
3. 2×2 Rib
4. Lycra Rib
5. Flat Back Rib
Interlock Fabric
1. Plain Interlock
2. Drop Needle Interlock
3. Interlock with Lycra
Collar and Cuff
1. Plain Collar or Solid Collar
2. Shaving Collar
3. Jacquard Collar
4. Tipping Collar
5. Race Collar
6. Stripe Collar
Also different types of decorative design are
developed by knitting machine. In modern times
auto stripe knitting machine use to produce multi
color stripe fabrics, which is not possible to
produce by normal knitting machine.
In above I have written about Lycra. Lycra use for
special purpose. Use of Lycra depends on buyer
requirement. It increases the elastic properties of
fabrics.
Different knitted fabrics have different properties.
Use of knitted fabrics depends on the atmospheric
condition of the country. It also depends on the
choice of one.

COTTON LYCRA®

LYCRA® is a man-made elastic fibre invented
and produced only by DuPont®.It’s remarkable
properties of stretch and recovery enhance all
fabrics and garments in which it is used, adding
easy comfort and freedom of movement and
improving fit and shape retention. Swimwear and
lingerie owe their figure-flattering fit to LYCRA®.
All types of hosiery are softer, smoother-fitting
and more durable thanks to LYCRA®. In short, a
little bit of LYCRA® makes all types of apparel fit
better, feel better and look better.
Tech-Talk
LYCRA® belongs to the generic elastane
classification of man-made fibres(known as
spandex in the US and Canada) and is described
in technical terms as a segmented polyurethane it
is composed of “soft”, or flexible, segments
bonded together with “hard”, or rigid, segments.
This gives the fibre it’s built-in, lasting elasticity.
LYCRA can be stretched four to seven times
its initial length, yet springs back to it’s original
length once tension is released.
While LYCRA® appears to be a single continuous
thread, it is in reality a bundle of tiny filaments.
How LYCRA® is used
LYCRA® is never used alone; it is always
combined with another fiber (or fibers), natural or
man-made. Fabrics enhanced with LYCRA®
retain the appearance of the majority fibre.
The type of fabric and it’s end use determine
the amount and type of LYCRA® required to
ensure optimum performance and aesthetics. As
little as 2 percent LYCRA® is enough to improve
a fabric’s movement, drape and shape retention,
while fabrics for high-performance garments such
as swimwear and active sportwear may contain
as much as 20-30 percent LYCRA®. Weaving or
knitting techniques, togheter with fabric type and
end use, determine whether LYCRA® is used in a
bare or covered yarn form.
Single and double covered LYCRA®
Core-twisted LYCRA®
The material used in the making of the
Cotton-Lycra line of Snob underwear consist of:
-90% Cotton
-10% Spandex(Lycra®)

COTTON TERRY FABRIC INFORMATION

COTTON TERRY FABRIC
INFORMATION
Cotton terry fabric is an extremely absorbent and
soft material, consisting of looped pile on the
front side, and sheared pile on the back. Gaining
prominence in the late 19th Century, terry cloth is
a fabric geared towards rest and relaxation. Used
extensively for bathrobes, slippers and towels, the
superb absorbency and light touch of the material
make it extremely popular. Cotton terry is a very
durable fabric, both machine washable and
dryable.

COTTON JERSEY FABRIC INFORMATION

COTTON JERSEY FABRIC
INFORMATION
Jersey fabric is a soft, warm stretchy fabric that
is made from cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers.
Named for the Isle of Jersey, part of the Channel
Islands between Britain and France, jersey fabric
has small, distinctive lengthwise ribs on its front
side. The material has an excellent drape, creases
well and insulates nicely. Jersey is renowned for
its ability to stretch, up to 25% along the grain,
and as such is well suited for form fitting
garments.
Jersey is often used for clingy skirts and shirts,
as well as casual wear and athletic wear. Cotton
jersey is machine washable in cold water, and
should be tumble dried on low. When cutting and
sewing jersey fabric, it is recommended that the
material be washed first, to eliminate issues
related to shrinkage later in the process.

COTTON MUSLIN FABRIC INFORMATION

COTTON MUSLIN FABRIC
INFORMATION
Muslin fabric is a finely woven cotton material
that is available in a large selection of weights
and widths. Typically white or an undyed natural
color, muslin originated in the Middle East
sometime in the 9th century. Muslin gained
significant popularity for use in clothing in 17th
century France, and is now used for a wide
variety of purposes.
Muslin is often used by dressmakers to determine
the fit and look of a dress or gown before the
production material, which is often quite more
expensive than the muslin, is cut and sewn. Wide
width muslin is often used as a liner for quilts,
and heavy weight muslin can be printed with
sewing patterns for durability. The material can
also be used in cooking applications, such as
cheese making. Muslin takes dyes and paints very
well, and is often found in theatrical scenery and
portrait photography.

COTTON FABRIC INFORMATION

COTTON FABRIC INFORMATION

Cotton is the most prevalent fiber in the world. Renowned for its breathability, strength and versatility, cotton has helped shape the history of the world by clothing and protecting countless civilizations and adventurers from the effects of nature. Derived in name from the Arabic “qutn”, cotton grows in a round boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a thorned shrub belonging to the Malvaceae family of the genus Gossypium. Cotton is believed to have been first cultivated and spun by the Indus Valley Civilization around 4,000 B.C. Well before the emergence of Christianity, the manufacture of cotton was widespread throughout India and the Mediterranean. Arab traders introduced fine cotton fabrics to Italy and Spain the in 1st century, and the Moors brought cotton production to Spain in the 9th century. Cotton reached the shores of England in the 1600s, as the East India Company began importing delicate textiles from India. India fell from prominence in cotton production by the 18th Century as the Industrial Revolution in Europe greatly increased cotton processing and the East India Company increasingly relied on India merely as a source of the raw material. Automated processes for separating the cotton boll from its barbed enclosure were greatly improved with the development of the cotton gin by Eli Whitney in 1793. Cotton fabric began to be produced almost exclusively in Northern Europe, to be later exported to the colonies from which the cotton fibers originated. During the US Civil War, cotton farming provided the money needed to sustain the Southern Confederacy, and after he war, previously blockaded American exports bounced back immediately due to their lower cost and excellent quality. Today, cotton production is a billion-dollar industry. The incorporation of cotton is used in everything from personal hygiene products to hospital blankets. While the United States had historically been the world's leading producer of cotton, today that title is held by China, which produces over 7.6 million tons of cotton annually. Cotton requires a sunny environment with moderate rainfall and little frost, resulting in large amounts of cotton grown in India, China, Egypt and the Southeastern United States. Why is cotton so incredibly popular? Its fibers are highly porous, making cotton clothing light and breathable, but able to be woven into any desired density. This quality also enables cotton fabric to be dyed easily, making it a natural choice for designers. Cotton fabric is available in a plentitude of varieties, such as supremely soft and luxurious Sea Island and Pima cotton, rugged and durable corduroy, industrial strength canvas, light and chic voile and organdy, and lustrous sateen and velvet. Cotton fabric is especially soft and pleasing to the touch; and, since it is derived naturally, those with sensitive skin are able to wear the fiber without any adverse reactions. Cotton is also a fabric that responds well to sewing: it has a slight give, but is not difficult to handle, like spandex or lycra. Its drape conforms well to the curves of the body, which makes it a brilliant choice for women's garments. Cotton fabric is also a hugely popular choice for undergarments: it naturally wicks away moisture while retaining breathability. Cotton does not require the maintenance of silk or other fabrics: it does not need to be dry-cleaned and will not be ruined in a rainstorm. However, because the cotton fibers are so porous, shrinkage of the material is a possibility. It is always recommended to wash cotton first before beginning any sewing endeavor. For beginners and experts alike, cotton fabric is a natural choice for fine garments, dresses, pants, shirts, baby clothing, and any other project requiring a gentle touch and long-lasting wearability.

Classification of Textile Fiber :

Classification of Textile Fiber :

There are various
types of fiber are found in the market but all have
not same characteristics. The characteristics of
the fiber differ depending on the source from
where it is produced. Generally textile fibers are
classified into main two types they are-Natural
fiber And Synthetic fiber or manmade fiber or
artificial fiber. Now I like to present the
classification of textile fiber as below.
Natural Fiber : Natural fiber is that which is
produced naturally. The source of origin could be
vegetable, animal and mineral origin.
Vegetable Origin:
1. Bast Fibers (Jute, Flax, Ramie)
2. Leaf Fibers (Sisal, manila)
3. Seed and Fruits Fibers ( cotton , coir)
Animal Origin:
1. Wool and Hair Fiber
2. Silk and other Filaments
Mineral Origin: Asbestos
Synthetic Fibers/Manmade Fibers/Artificial
Fibers : Synthetic fibers are produced by the
polymerization of various monomers. It is made
by the man for this reason, it is so called.
Natural Polymer Based:
1. Cellulosic
2. Cellulose Ester
3. Protein
4. Miscellaneous
Synthetic Polymer Based:
1. Polyamides
2. Polyester
3. Polyvinyl Derivatives ( PVA, PTFE, Polyvinylidene
dinitrite, Polystyrene etc)
4. Polyolefines
5. Polyurethanes (Elastomer)
6. Miscellaneous
Above textile fibers are processed by different
methods. All textile fibers contain their own
characteristics. We can identify the fiber type by
different testing procedure. Also we should know
the physical and chemical properties of different
fibers.

NAME OF KNITTED FABRIC AND APPEARANCE IMAGE

NAME OF KNITTED FABRIC AND
APPEARANCE

There are more useable knitted fabric name &
their appearance image are given below:
1) Single Jersey
2) Rib Fabric
3) Single Jersey Printed Fabric
4) 3X3 Rib
5) Lacoste Fabric
(S/J Straight line between hexagonal design &
when knit, tuck stitch comination is not equal)
6) Interlock fabric
7) Drop needle Fabric
8) Solid Pique (S/J Hexagonal design when knit
,Tuck stitch is equal)
9) Solid Pique
10) Waffle Fabric(Pique)
11) Stripe Pique
12) Loopback Terry
13) Fleece Fabric
14) Sherpa
15) Mesh Fabric

SILK FABRIC INFORMATION

SILK FABRIC INFORMATION

Silk fabric is widely regarded as the most
luxurious textile on the planet. Its tumultuous
history, rife with wars, secrecy, and centuries of
trade, bears little resemblance to the fabric's
current reputation for being the epitome of high
fashion.
The most abundant form of silk, a natural protein
fiber, is cultivated from the cocoon of mulberry
silkworm larvae. Silkworms lay eggs on special
paper and eat only fresh mulberry leaves. Thirty-
five days after hatching, the silkworms begin
spinning their cocoons. Each cocoon yields 1,000
yards of raw silk thread, which is then spun to
produce a “yarn” of silk. The process is time-
consuming and delicate, which explains the high
cost of silk. The fiber gets its brilliant shimmer
from its structure, a triangular prism that reflects
light at varying angles. Another variant of silk,
“wild silk”, is produced by caterpillars other than
the mulberry silkworm, and can be harvested in
captivity much like traditional silk. The color and
texture of wild silk tends to differ from the
cultivated variety, and the fibers are typically
shorter, due to damage by the emerging moth. To
preserve the long, silken strands of fiber in
cultivated cocoons, the larvae inside is typically
pierced with a needle, and the cocoon is unraveled
without damage.
Silk's textile origins date back to 6000 BC, when
the wife of the Yellow Emperor, Xi Ling-Shi, went
for a walk among damaged mulberry trees and
noticed glistening threads attached to worms
eating the plant's leaves. Historians disagree
about how long it took before Xi Ling-Shi realized
the silkworms cocoons could be harvested into
silk, but one version recounts the Empress
dropping a cocoon into her tea and watching it
unravel into silken threads. China maintained a
monopoly on silk trade for thousands of years and
orchestrated an intricate and famous trade
system eventually extending as far west as
Europe and Africa, which was known as the Silk
Road. High-quality silk was also produced in
Thailand, India and eventually Western Europe,
but the material wasn't introduced to America
until the 17th century; early settlers simply could
not afford the expensive cloth. Synthetics were
later developed as a substitute for the luxurious
feel of silk fabric, but they dyed poorly and lacked
the shimmering quality of silk's light-refracting
prisms.
Today, silk fabrics are prevalent in every country:
from Indian saris to French couture gowns, it has
pervaded all cultures. Its low conductivity keeps
one warm in the winter, while its great
absorbency wicks moisture away during summer.
The feel of silk fabric is unmistakable: smooth
and luxurious, the fabric ripples like the surface of
water. This quality makes it especially suitable for
sexy lingerie and elegant dresses. It is a fabric
reserved for special occasions, a cloth meant to
enhance a moment. Check out our bountiful
collection of silk fabrics as well as our Silk Color
Match Collection.

VELVET FABRIC INFORMATION

VELVET FABRIC INFORMATION

For a long period of history, velvet was a
possession of the rich and royal; a sumptuous,
luxurious fabric that was draped across walls and
adorned noble frocks. From Kashmir in the
Middle-Ages to Belgium and Italy during the
Renaissance, the art of velvet weaving has
produced a singularly recognizable material,
immediately conferring a sensation of nobility.
Velvet is commonly made from silk and cotton,
and more recently has been fashioned from
polyester as well. The material is extremely plush
and soft, and is most popular in deep, rich colors.
Velvet production results in piles on the face of
the fabric, which can be dealt with in various
manners to create different looks. The pile can be
cut into shapes, creating cut velvet patterns that
are popular with drapery and cushion covers, or it
can be twisted while wet to form crushed velvet,
which is popular in home furnishings as well as
garments. The pile can also be directionally
compressed, even in multiple directions on the
same piece of cloth, to create interesting looks
depending in the point of view.
Velvet is a particularly tricky material to maintain,
as prolonged compression or folding can
permanently affect the pile. Creases can be
removed through the use of a velvet board or a
steamer, and most velvet pieces are
recommended to be dry cleaned, although some
crushed velvet garments are machine washable.

VELOUR FABRIC INFORMATION

VELOUR FABRIC INFORMATION
Velour is a thick, soft material that combines the
stretch of a knit fabric with the plush pile of
velvet. Velour is typically made from cotton, but
has also recently been fashioned from synthetic
fibers such as polyester. The rich, luxurious look
and feel of velour, in addition to its stretch
abilities, has lead to its popularity in dance wear,
casual clothing, theatrical costumes and
upholstery, particularly automotive seats and
draperies.
Velour is typically less expensive than velvet, and
often serves as a low-cost replacement. Velour
can replicate the elegance of velvet in costumes
and performance attire, and is also more durable
and giving than velvet, which heightens its appeal
for couch, car seat and drapery applications.
Velour is best cared for by machine washing in
cold water, and laying flat to dry. Velour can be
machine dried on low, but the nap may become
distorted.

POPLIN FABRIC INFORMATION

POPLIN FABRIC INFORMATION
Poplin fabric, also known as tabinet, is a plain
weave, medium to heavy weight durable material
with a textured surface, a result of the
combination of a smooth warp yarn with a
coarser weft yarn. The term poplin is a derivative
of papeline, in reference to the Papal residence in
Avignon, France, where the fabric was first
manufactured in the 1400s. Using a silk warp and
worsted wool weft, early poplin garments featured
a slight rigidity and horizontal ribbing in addition
to the sheen provided by the silk yarns. Poplin
was traditionally used to make heavy silk, cotton
and wool dresses, although today's uses of poplin
trend more towards soft and easy to wear cotton
and polyester shirts and pants.
Poplin's textured surface ribbing allows the fabric
to be wrinkle resistant and quite sturdy, providing
all day wearability and easy maintenance. Cotton
poplin shirts have become extremely popular, as
they are considered high quality garments and
very reliable. Polyester poplin fabric is a staple of
medical and professional uniforms, as the
material is naturally somewhat water and stain
resistant. Poplin's myriad uses also extend to
upholstery, where the fabric can be found on
chairs and couches that experience significant
wear.

LINEN FABRIC INFORMATION

LINEN FABRIC INFORMATION
Linen is a lightweight and breathable fabric, used
extensively in warmer climates. Linen fabric is
traditionally made from flax, a finicky plant that
requires a good deal of attention during its
growth; for this reason (and because linen has no
elasticity, making it more difficult to weave), linen
tends to be more expensive than cotton. The
production of quality linen fabric is highly
dependant on growing and harvesting procedures.
The flax plant is either completely pulled out of
the ground or cut close to the root, and the seeds
are removed through a process called winnowing.
Fibers are loosened from the plant stalk through
the retting process, and are then ready for the
scutching procedure. Scutching occurs between
August and December, and involves removing the
woody part of the stalk by crushing it between
two rollers, leaving the fibers exposed. Shorter
fibers are combed away, leaving only the long,
desirable flax fibers behind. The history of linen
fabric is not nearly as well-documented as that
of cotton and silk, though it is the oldest of all
fabrics, and evidence of linen has been found in
Swiss lake dwellings dating from 8000 BC. It may
simply be that flax was taken for granted. After
all, families in every country around the world had
their own flax garden; it was just as natural an
occurrence as fetching water from the well.
However, the earliest mention of linen fabric
comes from ancient Greece, where the evidence of
a linen industry is shown on 4,000 year-old
tablets. From there, the Phoenicians established
linen trading throughout Eurasia and introduced
flax cultivation to present-day Ireland. Evidence
of linen's durability is shown in its use in ancient
Egyptian mummification; the linen wrappings of
King Rameses II were nearly perfectly preserved
after more than 3,000 years. Today, Western
Europe, Ireland in particular, dominates flax and
linen production in both quantity and quality.
Linen has traditionally been regarded as the
“workhorse” of fabrics, relegated to use in
household textiles like towels and aprons.
However, since 1970, linen fabric production for
apparel has increased from 5% to 70%. Though
the feel of linen fabrics is less smooth than that
of cotton, it is highly absorbent and far more
durable. While this makes linen fabric perfectly
suited for table coverings, bed coverings, curtains,
and other household textiles, its durability, light
weight, and breathability make it ideal for pants,
shirts, and outerwear. Linen is also a favorite in
the kitchen, its insulating and cooling properties
making it ideal for oven mitts and napkins.
Although the term “linens” now refers to any
fabric that is used for bedding, towels or place
settings, linen fabric will always be a superior
choice for quality home décor, napkins,
tablecloths and breezy summer wear. Linen can
be machine-washed and requires much less care
than silk or cotton, though it does have a
tendency to wrinkle. Ironing of linen should be
done while damp, and only to remove wrinkles,
never to dry the fabric; linen should be laid flat to
dry. Linen can also attract mildew, so it should
be dried thoroughly after washing and before
storage.

ACETATE FABRIC AND VISCOSE FABRIC INFORMATION

ACETATE FABRIC AND VISCOSE
FABRIC INFORMATION
Acetate was one of the first man-made fibers,
developed by Doctors Camille and Henri Dreyfus,
two Swiss brother based in Basel, Switzerland.
Initially focusing on cellulose acetate for use in
motion picture film, the brothers developed a
workable fiber in 1913. The first commercial
acetate threads were spun in the United States in
1924 and trademarked under the name Celanese.
The material is derived from cotton or wood pulp
cellulose, and through a process of acid
treatments and hydrolysis, cellulose acetate is
achieved. The compound is then dissolved in
acetone and results in viscose resin, which is then
pushed through a spinneret and emerges as
filaments. In the final step of the process, the
acetone solvent is evaporated through dry
spinning, leaving the acetate fibers remaining.
Synthetic fabrics derived from organic material
have fallen from prominence, however, since the
more recent emergence of readily available and
less expensive petroleum-based synthetics.
Viscose and acetate fabrics are renowned for their
slick and slippery textures and luxurious shine.
Acetate for use in clothing is also known as
rayon, and has the breathability of cotton blended
with the supple feel of luxurious silk. Viscose,
when combined with a variety of other
components, is also used in medical devices as
cellulose xanthe and as the translucent wrapping
material known as cellophane.
The elegant drape of the material lends itself to
beautiful accent pieces for garments as well as
chic bedding and home décor. Acetate is often
used in bridal party attire due to its splendid
shine, while viscose jersey material is a wrinkle-
resistant form of the material commonly found in
athletic jerseys and other flowing garments. Care
for the fabric is dependant on the specific variety,
as some require dry cleaning while others are
machine washable.

WORSTED WOOL FABRIC INFORMATION

WORSTED WOOL FABRIC
INFORMATION
Worsted wool is easily identified by its straight,
parallel fibers. Named for the village of Worstead,
England, worsted fabric is made from worsted
yarns, which are wool fibers that have been
combed to ensure that they all lie in the same
direction and remain parallel. The crimp of the
original wool is removed through the combing
process, creating a material with the benefits of
wool and a distinctive feel.
The resulting fabric is lightweight and drapes
well, and if often used for suits, coats and
accessories. Worsted wool should be hand
washed or dry cleaned only, as the delicate
nature of wool may lead to shrinkage or damage
in machine washers.

SERGE FABRIC INFORMATION

SERGE FABRIC INFORMATION
Serge is a twill weave fabric, similar to gabardine,
with distinctive diagonal ridges, a result of the
two-up and two-down weaving process.
Extremely durable and sturdy, serge fabric has a
classic, dressy look, drapes especially well and is
quite flexible.
The word "serge" is derived from the Greek
serikos, meaning "silken". Evidence of serge fabric
dates back to a piece of the fabric found in the
tomb of Charlemagne, possibly a gift from the
Byzantine empire during the 8th century and
thought to have originated in China sometime
before that. Originally possessed only by nobility
and the upper class, serge fabric began to be
manufactured by the French in the 1500s, using
premium English wool. Wool serge is especially
popular in military uniforms and suits, as the
material drapes very well, can be worn
comfortably for extended periods of time, and can
be made in a variety of weights for different
climates. Silk serge fabric is typically used as a
lining, as the soft material wears well against the
skin and the natural resiliency of serge allows for
the insides of coats and jackets to be adequately
protected. Serge is typically though of as a
premium fabric, as its durability, flexibility, ease of
wear and range of weights lend it to be a perfect
choice for dressy yet frequently worn garments.

GABARDINE FABRIC INFORMATION

GABARDINE FABRIC
INFORMATION
Gabardine fabric utilizes a twill weave to achieve
a diagonally ribbed surface that is smooth to the
touch. The fabric is durable and tightly woven,
and is traditionally made of worsted wool, but is
also available in cotton or synthetic mixtures.
Named after the “gaberdine”, a type of coat that
was tied at the waist, gabardine fabric was
invented by Thomas Burberry and patented in
1888. The material has a history of usage in cold
weather environments, as it has been worn by
South Pole explorers and Mt. Everest climbers.
The fabric can be found in suits, slacks and
uniforms, and is also produced with a satin finish
to lend a shiny, silken appearance. Gabardine
should be hand washed or dry cleaned, and
ironed with a warm iron.

WOOL FABRIC INFORMATION

WOOL FABRIC INFORMATION
Wool is a natural fiber, shorn primarily from sheep
as well as goats and llamas, that has long been
used to create warm and durable clothing and
blankets. Modern uses of wool extend beyond
winter attire, as wool can be found in carpeting,
insulation, felt and luxury suits. Wool is different
than fur: it has characteristic bends, or crimps,
along the fiber, has the capacity to stretch when
woven and grows in clusters known as staples.
The crimps let the fibers bunch together, which
results in a bulkier material that also acts as a
superior insulator. Fine wool, such as Merino,
may have dozens of crimps per inch, while
rougher wools may only have a handful. Wool
fabric has the unique ability to stretch much
further than silk, cotton, or other natural fibers
and regains its original shape after being
stretched. It has an extremely high absorbency
rate and is flame retardant, which makes it useful
in firefighters' uniforms and carpeting in trains
and airplanes. Wool also does not build up static
cling; the fabric will not cling to the body or
produce a spark. Wool is naturally absorbent, and
can absorb almost 1/3 of its own weight. Wool
has existed since the domestication of sheep and
goats, and wool fabric was readily available to
the general populace long before silk or cotton,
fabrics that were considered luxuries reserved for
the upper classes. Wool was one of the most
prominent trading goods of medieval times and
greatly impacted Europe's economy. England
became central to the production of wool fabric
beginning in the 1200's, and its protectionism of
the material only grew throughout the ensuing
centuries. England guarded her wool furiously;
American colonies were forbidden to trade wool
with anyone but England. Today, of the one billion
sheep in the world, only thirty million are in
England. Australia, New Zealand and China have
emerged as the producers of the majority of wool
in the market. Through selective breeding and
improvements to the fibers, over 60% of today's
wool production is used for apparel. Wool is put
through a time-honored cleaning and
classification process in order to ready it for
weaving. Grease wool, or the wool straight off the
sheep, contains lanolin, dirt, skin cells and various
other particles, and must be cleaned by hand and
subsequently in a soapy bath. The lanolin
retrieved in this process is popular in lotions and
hand creams. The cleaned wool is separated and
the fluffy fleece is set aside from the other, less
valuable remnants. Fleece of varying qualities are
then sorted into similar groups and packaged for
sale. The quality of wool is determined by the
crimps, fiber diameter, color and strength, with
the fiber diameter being the most important
factor. A wool fiber with a diameter of less than
25 microns is considered fine and suitable for
garment use, while the thicker grades are
relegated to carpeting, insulation and rugs. Wool
fabric has come a long way from the scratchy,
oversize sweaters of the past. Superfine Merino
wool makes ultra-expensive suits, while synthetic
blends such as silk/wool or cotton/wool add
shine and breathability to this classic material.
Wool fabric works well in skirts, shirts, pants,
coats, hats and other winter accessories, as well
as industrial uses such as insulation and
commercial carpeting. Wool may also be used for
blankets and, when treated with lanolin, resists
odor, water seepage, and bacteria. Wool can also
be harvested organically, which reduces the
chances for wool allergies and any adverse
reactions to chemicals. Wool fabric's soft feel,
great features, and fabulous drape make for a
very pleasant experience.

TULLE FABRIC INFORMATION

TULLE FABRIC INFORMATION
Tulle fabric is a delicate, lightweight net fabric,
made from rayon, nylon, silk, and sometimes
cotton, which is often starched to add structure.
Tulle fabric is named after the French town of
Tulle, pronounced "tool", where it most likely
originated during the 18th century. Most tulle
fabric is machine-made using a bobbinet
structure, a hexagonal design that uses tension in
the threads to retain shape. The result is a
surprisingly strong fabric, light in weight and
delicate in appearance only.
Tulle is typically found as an accent in garments
that call for a sheer, lace look, such as wedding
gowns, veils, evening wear pieces and tutus. Tulle
can add significant volume to a dress or gown if
layered underneath, providing strong support with
relatively little fabric weight. Other uses for tulle
include insect netting, gift wrap and
scrapbooking. Tulle should be machine washed in
cold water, or hand washed, and laid flat to dry.

SPANDEX FABRIC INFORMATION

SPANDEX FABRIC INFORMATION
Nylon and polyester spandex fabrics have come
to prominence in the last several decades as the
premier fabrics for athletic wear, uniforms,
swimwear, and workout clothing.
Spandex fabric - also known as elastane or Lycra
- is a modern synthetic fiber known for its
exceptional elasticity, hence its prevalence in
athletic attire as well as in apparel designed for
comfort or to flatter the figure. The material is
extremely comfortable, lightweight, supple and
dyes easily. It is a key stretchy fabric in active-
wear garments and in an ever growing array of
other stylish attire, such as dancewear and club
wear.
Spandex was developed in 1959 by DuPont
scientist Joseph Shivers, the culmination of nearly
a decade of research. The material is a long-
chain synthetic polymeric fiber, consisting of a
rubbery segment for stretch and recovery as well
as a rigid segment for strength and durability.
Spandex is always blended with another fiber
such as cotton or linen, and does not lose
integrity with exposure to lotions or the body's
natural oils, unlike rubber thread.
Its generic "spandex" name is a clever (reverse)
word play on the fact that the fabric is rather
uniquely "ex-pandable", and thus ideal for a range
of active lifestyle garments and applications.
DuPont's brand of spandex, Lycra, began its foray
into the fashion world during the 1960's in
women's pantyhose and undergarments. The
material was soon cropping up elsewhere, though,
in uniforms, swimwear and athletic attire.
Spandex leggings were all the rage in aerobics
classes throughout the 1980's, and many
entertainers began incorporating the material into
their stage costumes. Spandex remains widely
used for a multitude of applications, ranging from
traditional uses in clothing to practical bedding
and automotive paneling. Spandex is a truly
remarkable textile that has altered the form and
function of fashion.

FLEECE FABRIC INFORMATION

FLEECE FABRIC INFORMATION
Natural fleece is an organic, marvelously soft,
amazingly resilient fabric that has been used in
textiles since the domestication of sheep. Fleece
is sheared humanely from specially-fed lambs and
then spun into textiles. Fleece fabric is all-natural
and reacts well to dyeing, thus making it
especially appropriate for bedding, winter clothing,
baby garments, and outerwear. In addition to soft
cotton, fleece is one of the best fabrics to use
against delicate skin. Those with allergies to
synthetic fabrics will appreciate fleece's hypo-
allergic, organic fibers. However, because it is an
organic fabric, care must be taken during
washing. Hand wash fleece and air-dry it; avoid
the dryer as this can shrink the garment down to
70% of its original size. For a more economical
alternative to natural fleece, polyester-based
polar fleece is widely available and shares many
of the benefits of organic fleece. Polar fleece, first
created in 1973 by the firm now known as
Polartec, is soft, warm, water resistant, and very
breathable much like natural fleece, with the
addition of being machine washable. For those
who are allergic or sensitive to wool, polar fleece
is a great alternative, and for a synthetic fabric,
the material is quite environmentally friendly as it
can be made entirely from recycled plastic
bottles. Polyester fleece is somewhat flammable,
though, and should not be washed or dried on
high heat settings. Due to fleece's fantastic
ability as an insulator, it is not recommended for
use in summer garments. However, fleece
performs beautifully during fall and winter, when
its lightweight yet powerful pile allows for
maximum warmth. It is also great for use in
crafting; fleece fabric makes fantastic quilts, yarn,
and is suitable for all types of imaginative sewing
projects. It is perfect for outerwear, shirts, socks,
mittens, and any other soft, winter items.

POLYESTER FABRIC INFORMATION

POLYESTER FABRIC
INFORMATION
Polyester is a very popular synthetic fabric, often
found in combination with natural fibers to
provide strength and resistance to both wrinkles
and the elements. The material commonly known
as polyester, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), is
actually only one of a group of polymers that
contain the ester functional group in their
chemical composition, and is derived chiefly from
petroleum. PET, henceforth referred to as
polyester, was patented in 1941 by British
chemists John Whinfield and James Dickson while
employed by the Calico Printer's Association of
Manchester, England. The pair developed
polyester based on the early research of Wallace
Carothers, the inventor of nylon. While DuPont
decided to focus solely on the development of
nylon in the 1930's and 40's, Whinfield and
Dickson created the first polyester fiber, Terylene.
DuPont soon purchased the U.S. rights to
Terylene and resumed its research into polyester,
introducing its own version, Dacron, in 1950. Due
to the source of polyester, petroleum, being so
widely available and inexpensive in the mid
1900's, use of the fabric gained in popularity.
However, polyester was regarded as being rather
uncomfortable and retaining heat, and the
proliferation of cheap polyester suits and shirts
with massive lapels started to hurt the image of
the fabric for garment use. Recently, polyester
has experienced resurgence with the advent of
microfibers. A great increase in softness and
wearability has been paired with marketing
campaigns aimed to promote polyester as a wash
and go fabric, as opposed to simply being
inexpensive. Polyester fabric can be found in
high-quality, wrinkle resistant shirts, pants, and
costumes, as well as in bedding and home décor.
Polyester fleece is popular in wetsuits and other
garments that require heat retention and
insulation, and the fabric is immensely popular in
outdoor applications, such as overcoats, sleeping
bags and climbing suits. Polyester's uses go
beyond clothing, as it can be found in plastic
bottles, ropes, even fancy balloons. Polyester
fabric is a truly remarkable material which lends
strength, warmth and durability to any project.

NYLON FABRIC INFORMATION

NYLON FABRIC INFORMATION
While silk, cotton, wool, and linen are all derived
from plants or animals, nylon is an entirely
synthetic fabric. Originally intended to be a man-
made replacement for silk, nylon has extended its
reach into a vast array of applications, from
stockings to carpets to guitar strings. The term
“nylon” is a generic descriptor for the family of
synthetic polymers known as polyamides. First
developed in 1938 by DuPont scientist Wallace
Carothers, the invention of nylon was a direct
result of World War II, during which the United
States could no longer import silk and cotton
from Asia. Before the war, silk was the sole fabric
used in parachutes, and upon the onset of
hostilities, American manufacturers began
scrambling for a substitute. The DuPont
Company, acting on the advice of the government
to use plastic instead of metal whenever possible,
began experimenting with plastic fibers. By 1938,
nylon was being used commercially in hairbrushes
and by 1940, women were wearing nylon
stockings. However, though American women
were quick to fall in love with the new nylon
hosiery which was much cheaper than silk and
resisted tears and holes, by 1941 America had
relegated all nylon fabric to the war effort and the
price of nylon stockings went from $1.25 a pair to
$10 a pair on the black market. After the war,
nylon was once again allowed to be used in
hosiery production. Thousands of women flocked
to New York department stores to buy what they
now called “nylons”. When washing machines
began to gain acceptance among the general
public, nylon and nylon blends were touted for
their amazing “wash and wear” qualities, meaning
they could be washed and worn without ironing.
Nylon fabric has a low absorbency rate, which
makes it ideal for swimwear and sportswear.
Nylon is often combined with other fibers, such as
spandex and PVC, and can be woven into any
pattern. It is often used in bridal wear and, unlike
polyester and acetate, can be easily dyed. Nylon's
uses are incredibly vast: it can be found in flags,
toothbrush bristles, racket strings, machine parts
and even sutures. Characteristics that have made
nylon and nylon fabric in particular so popular
include:
Rugged durability
Stretch and elasticity
Resistant to tears and abrasions
Resistant to heat and water
Resistant to molds, mildew, and chemical
damage
Melts instead of catching fire
Due to the fact that nylon is a synthetic fiber
derived from widely available ingredients, it is one
of the most cost effective fabrics, making it ideal
for beginning sewers or anyone who wishes to
explore thriftier clothing options. And, because
nylon fabrics come in all degrees of stretch and
are great at wicking away moisture, they are
perfect for leotards, jerseys, shorts, and any other
situation requiring the freedom of movement.
Nylon fabric is cool, durable, and extremely low-
maintenance, which has lead to its meteoric rise
in popularity over the past 70 years.

LEATHER INFORMATION

LEATHER INFORMATION
History of Leather: From early settlers to modern
day people Leather has been used as a durable
and flexible material serving countless purposes.
Early settlers in America found the native peoples
were skilled in the art of leather tanning especially
buckskin which is exceptionally soft and water-
resistant. The technique was to pile the skins
until they began to decay; the decay loosened the
hair which was removed by hand along with the
flesh from the underside. Oil and animal brains
were pounded into the skins, following which they
were often smoked. During colonial times, leather
enjoyed a range of uses including door hinges, fire
buckets, tableware and coach springs. The oak-
bark method from thousands of years before was
used until the end of the 18th century when
people learned that bark from hemlock, chestnut
trees and other plant substances could also be
used for tanning leather.
Come the end of the 19th century, an American
chemist discovered that chromium salts used on
hides produced a different kind of raw hide
leather, than produced by the traditional bark-
tanning method. The new procedure required the
resulting leather to be treated with soaps and oils
and has become the leading modern method for
producing leather. Chrome tanning produced
softer more supple leather than vegetable tanning,
suitable for the increasing demand for lightweight
and fashionable footwear and reflecting our new
way of living after the invention of the
automobile. The process begins in rotating drums
with a bath in a chemical containing trivalent
chrome. It usually takes eight hours for the
chrome to penetrate all the way into the hide.
Once this has been achieved the chrome is “fixed”
by adding an alkaline chemical such as sodium
carbonate or bicarbonate. After this treatment the
hide is considered tanned. Chrome tanning is
used in 90% of leather manufacture today.
Vegetable tanning is still used in shoe soles,
luggage, saddlery, belt leathers and some
upholstery. The process is slower than chrome
tanning and involves the chemical substance
tannin, or tannic acid, which is extracted from the
barks of trees. This process is normally
performed in drums taking two to four days.
After tanning, wringing lowers the moisture
content of the hide in preparation for splitting.
Depending on the end use of the leather product,
the hides are split into sheets of the required
thickness and processed further through a
shaving machine for added quality. Around the
end of the 19th century, Americans also invented
machinery to make the job of leather production
easier, including one which could split leather to
any desired thickness, thereby increasing output.
Machines were also invented that would speed up
de-hairing, fleshing and cleaning. After shaving,
chrome tanned hides are again placed in rotating
drums with hot water, dyes and synthetic tanning
materials to obtain the desired color. They are
then lubricated with natural fat or synthetic fatty
type chemicals, or a combination of both to
obtain the softness required by the final product.
The next process is setting, which is the removal
of excess water and spreading the hide out prior
to drying. Upholstery leather is normally toggle
dried (spreading the leather over expanding
frames held by “toggles” or clips) hence the clip
marks around the entire hide. Staking is the
mechanical softening of the leather after drying.
The hides may also be softened by milling which
is dry tumbling with atomized moisture injected
into the tumbler. Finishing consists of placing a
series of coatings on the surface of the leather.
These coatings are designed to protect the
leather and produce surface effects pleasing to
the eye and hand. Some finishing processes apply
plastics such as acrylic and urethane resins.
Others coat with vinyl, wax, nitrocellulose, or dye.
Various mechanical operations are necessary to
obtain the desired effect. Hydraulic presses,
printing, embossing machines, automatic spray
applicators and vacuum driers are a few of the
machines used in the finishing process. Patent
Leather In 1818, Seth Boyden of Newark, New
Jersey, invented patent leather after investigating
ways to treat leather that would render it dressier
than the classic form while retaining its durability.
Althouth Seth's process employed a linseed-oil
based lacquer coating to give the leather its shiny
finish, today patent leather is usually coated in
plastic. Patent leather is an eye-catching, water-
resistant material reserved for fashion items such
as wallets and handbags, shoes, and trench
coats.
Dyeing leather holds dye well due to its porous
nature. Before the mid-1800s, all dyes were
created from vegetable matter. Since then, dyes
have been produced using coal-tar or petroleum.
Traditionally seen in only black or brown, leather
jackets today are dyed in every color imaginable .
Types of leather: Steer hide is pebbly and crinkly
in texture and very pliable. It comes in natural or
two-toned colors. Cowhide is versatile and
natural in color with a smooth grain. Sheep is
medium-weight and not as durable as other
leathers. Morocco goat is used for linings,
billfolds, and book bindings and comes in several
colors. Pigskin is durable, comes in a natural
color and varies in weight. Suede is a type of
finish which is generally made on sheep skins.
Suede is available in many colors, and is popular
for garments as well as linings.
Leather as a fashion statement . Today, at least
half of leather is used in footwear, one-quarter in
clothing, only 15% in upholstery, and the
remainder in small leather goods. Leather is also
used in cars, planes, and equestrian saddles. The
leather jacket, used in the military and by aviators
(called “bomber jackets”) during World War Two,
became a fashion item in the 1950s. After Marlon
Brando wore one in The Wild One in 1953, the
black leather jacket took on iconic status,
representing rebellion and everything “cool”. The
leather jacket worn by Fonzie in the Happy Days
sitcom became so famous that it now enjoys
pride of place at the Smithsonian Institute in
Washington. Toward the end of the 20th century,
the iconic bomber jacket was joined by the
leather coat worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in
the Terminator franchise and Keanu Reeves'
leather trench in The Matrix.

DESIGNER FABRIC INFORMATION

DESIGNER FABRIC INFORMATION
Designer fabrics display an assertiveness of style,
the pinnacle of craftsmanship and a joie de vivre
which clearly lift them above the ordinary.
Projects incorporating designer fabrics possess
distinct advantages in both aesthetics and
quality. From innovative synthetics, to artistic
prints, to the finest cottons and silks, designer
fabrics earn their premium reputation with
reliability, durability and beauty.

DANCE WEAR FABRIC INFORMATION

DANCE WEAR FABRIC
INFORMATION
The breathtaking movement of dancers relies on
high-performance dance wear fabrics that keep
up with the most rigorous of schedules. Without
the proper fabric to warm and strengthen
muscles, dancers can sustain serious injuries.
From warm-up to practice to show time,
selecting the right fabrics is extremely important
for both the health of the dancer and the quality
of the performance.
The following are recommendations for suitable
dance wear fabrics to match a variety of needs:
• Warm-up and casual dance wear fabrics: polar
fleece, silk/cotton blend and cotton jersey.
• Movement dance wear fabrics: silk knit jersey,
nylon and polyester spandex, nylon powermesh,
and polyester stretch velvet.
• Costume and Performance fabrics: polyester
tulle, nylon and polyester spandex, nylon
powermesh, polyester stretch velvet, polyester
PVC solid, and viscose matte jersey.

CROCHET FABRIC INFORMATION

CROCHET FABRIC INFORMATION
Crochet, from the French word croche, meaning
"hook", is the process of creating fabric from
yarns or threads using a crochet hook. Similar to
knitting, although in crochet only one loop of yarn
is "active" at a time, crochet has evolved into a
very popular process for creating lace, doilies,
heirlooms and home decor items.
Crochet is believed to have been developed in
Europe in the early 1800's, although some
historians believe that earlier forms of crochet
existed yet did not use a physical hook, using a
bent finger in its place. It is speculated that major
textile manufacturing inventions such as the
cotton gin and spinning jenny, which allowed far
more cotton threads to be produced at lower
prices, aided the development of the crochet
process. As cotton is well suited to crochet, and
crochet uses more thread than similar weaving
techniques, these inventions made crochet more
economically viable. By the mid-1800's, crochet
was an established form of fabric and lace
creation throughout Europe and America.
The process of crochet is relative simple: a slip-
knot loop is place on the crochet hook, through
which another loop is pulled through, and
repeated until the desired length is reached. The
resulting chain can be further enhanced by
working down the rows or by creating a rounded
design. One key aspect of crochet is that at any
point in time, there is only on loop, or live stitch,
on the hook. This is different from knitting, which
uses two needles and keeps an entire row of
stitches active. One benefit of crochet over
knitting is that if a crochet stitch unravels, the
neighboring stitches are secure and intact, while
knitted stitches could come apart and threaten
the entire cloth. Crochet can produce more
elaborate and distinct designs than knitting, but
crochet must be done by hand: there is no
mechanical equivalent. Crochet requires only one
piece of hardware: the crochet hook. The hook
can vary in size and material, with the most
modern hooks made of aluminum, plastic or
wood. Traditional crochet hooks were made of a
wide variety of materials, including bone, ivory
and steel, and were sometimes adorned with
semi-precious stones.
Fabrics produced by crochet are mostly limited to
home decor and heirloom pieces, but can also be
found in bright, colorful designs used for blankets,
shirts and accessories. Crochet fabrics have
retained their popularity, although they have
transitioned from a much needed source of
income for Europe's poor to predominantly a
creative hobby. After World War II, there was a
significant resurgence in crochet, which occurred
again in the 1960's and the early 21st century.
Handmade lace, doilies, tablecloths and baby
items never seem to lose popularity, and the low
cost of crochet coupled with its use as a creative
outlet has established the process as a
permanent fixture of textile production.

COLOR FABRIC DYEING INFORMATION

COLOR FABRIC DYEING
INFORMATION

FABRIC DYEING SERVICE
Regional craft has been an integral part of a
city's culture and New York is no different. From
iconic food to exquisite jewelry, fashion to
finance, New York is a powerhouse of an
American city, dominating global markets and
setting the standard in style and design. Because
of its enormous influence on international fashion,
it's not surprising that New York also has a long
history of producing a wide spectrum of clothing
dyes.
Colors often taken for granted in the 21st century
were considered wonders a hundred years ago. In
fact, for most of civilization, clothing colors were
limited to plant-based colors such as drab
browns and watery grays. Only aristocrats were
able to afford bold colors such as carmine red
and royal purple, colors so expensive to import
from faraway lands that they immediately marked
the wearer as being of high station (hence the
reason royal purple really indicated the wearer as
being royalty). Dye was such a coveted
commodity that one of the principle assets Marco
Polo planned on exporting from his travels in
India was indigo, a deep blue color. Scientists,
eager to capitalize on peoples' desire for vivid
wardrobe colors, started developing synthetic
equivalents for animal and plant-based dyes,
allowing the beauty of color to be accessed by
everyone.
In 1857, a German chemist named Dr. August F.
W. Partz applied for two US patents for machines
used in his attempt to create magenta dye at his
Brooklyn plant. His efforts were unsuccessful, but
paved the way for the Holliday Chemical and
Color Company which produced magenta in three
shades: Empire Red, Keystone, and Bay State.
The Holliday business was located in Brooklyn,
NY, and was considered to set the standard for
the other major dye houses in the area. Some of
the largest dye houses located in New York City
included: The 12th Street Plant in South Brooklyn
had its own dock and rail system and produced a
bluish-green water-soluble indigo; The Beckers
Aniline and Chemical Works was the largest dye
manufacturing company in the United States and
was located in Flatbush, Brooklyn. Its owner was
one of the wealthiest industrialists in the era;
Zobel Color Works produced a wide range of
colors from methyl violet to sulfur black and was
located at 2nd Avenue and 9th Street in Brooklyn;
H. Kohnstamm and Company was located near
the lower tip of Manhattan and speciliazed in
high-class colors for automobiles; Williamsburg
Chemical Company located at 250 Morgan Ave,
Brooklyn, specialized in rich, sulfur black;
Commonwealth Color and Chemical Company
specialized in direct dyes for other fibers beside
cotton and was located on Nevins Street in
Brooklyn.
New York has a rich history of textile trade and
fabric dyeing which continues to this day. Among
the skyscrapers and throngs of pedestrians are
dye houses and fabric centers that provide
designers, manufacturers and hobbyists with a
constant supply of high-quality, vibrantly colored
textiles.

CHRISTMAS FABRIC INFORMATION

CHRISTMAS FABRIC
INFORMATION
The holidays are a thrilling time of year: cool
nights, hot chocolate, families gathering together,
food passed around long tables, and presents
opened in anticipation. There is so much beauty
to be seen and experienced that it's often easy to
overlook details. Fabric may often be the last
thing anyone associates with the holidays, and
yet, consider this: table runners, stockings, tree
skirts, ribbons, warm clothing, napkins, dresses,
ties, costumes, and placemats all require holiday
fabrics. Not just any fabric, either; the holidays
demand vivid colors, gold thread, and high
quality. Great choices for holiday dresses and
blouses are silks in iridescent colors, with
gorgeous draping and light-catching hues, such
as silk shantung or silk taffeta. There's also no
need to stick with traditional holiday colors;
instead of red, green, blue, and yellow, incorporate
rich golds and majestic purples. Silks in classic
blue, silver and white are dazzling and festive for
Hannukah, and a touch of other colors adds
warmth and palette depth. When taking family
portraits, choose coordinating colors instead of
identical uniforms. Create a pleasing palette by
dressing girls in beautiful dark blues and men in
flattering greens: your family portrait will be
classy and appropriate for the whole year instead
of confined to the holiday season. Garlands, tree
skirts, and table decorations should be vividly
colored with a stiff drape. For instance, instead of
the oft-repeated cotton tree skirt with pictures of
Santa, choose a silk dupioni Christmas fabric in
lush purple or red. The dupioni will not fade or
become dated, as lesser-quality cotton will, and it
will reflect the lights on the tree. Holiday fabrics
in silks and satins can be used year after year
without needing to be replaced; a simple steam
iron will restore them to the previous year's
splendor. Don't shy away from bold colors during
the holidays: this is their time to be displayed.
When winter hits, be prepared with deeply-piled
fabric such as fleece and wool. Gear up with
stockings in cotton flannel, jersey, or crochet.
Outerwear looks beautiful with satin/wool
combinations that provide the silkiness of satin
with the warmth of wool. Corduroy also shines
during the holidays; in vests, pants, shirts, and
dresses, corduroy warms while providing a sleek
vertical weave.

BRIDAL WEAR FABRIC INFORMATION

BRIDAL WEAR FABRIC
INFORMATION
A wedding is the union of families, hearts,
lifestyles, and desires. In both Western and
Eastern cultures, there is no more sacred bond
than that of husband and wife. Thus, the wedding
ceremony is the pinnacle of special events; for
many, it is the most extravagant and formal event
that they will participate in during their lifetime.
The bridal gown is at the heart of this even: it
denotes her commitment to purity and sets her
apart as the star of the wedding. The bridal gown
is not just a dress: it is a symbol.
In the West, wedding gowns have customarily
been white or some variant of off-white, such as
ivory or eggshell. Dresses in countries such as
China, Vietnam and Singapore, are traditionally
red, the color of good luck and auspiciousness.
Whatever the culture or location, many brides
prefer a dress that has been custom made to fit
both their bodies and their tastes.
For a traditional, full dress, popular fabrics are
double face satin, dutchess satin, silk cotton, silk
shantung, silk dupioni, or silk taffeta. For a more
form-fitting and curve accentuating gown, silk
charmeuse, silk habotai, silk stretch charmeuse,
silk double georgette, or silk crepe back satin are
often selected. To add a touch of flourish and
sheer elegance, silk organza or silk chiffon is
typically used. Finally, for the coordinating bridal
party attire, bridal satin, silk zibeline, silk cotton,
silk taffeta, silk dupioni, or silk crepe back satin
are perennial favorites. Polyester has recently
emerged as a lower-priced alternative to silk, but
polyester wedding dresses tend to lack the supple
drape of silk, have difficulties during the dyeing
process, and can get extremely hot.

THE GARMENT DISTRICT OF NEW YORK

THE GARMENT DISTRICT OF NEW
YORK
The Garment District of New York City is located
on the West side of Midtown Manhattan. The
massive concentration of fabric stores and textile
related companies exude fashion wherever you
look. The Garment District has been lauded as the
fashion capital of the world and prominently
boasts the headquarters of many of the world's
most distinguished fashion companies.
The Garment District is host to thousands of New
York City's showrooms and to countless major
fashion labels. Naturally, a plethora of resources
can be found, from pattern makers, full production
cutting and sewing rooms, designers, dress dyeing
service, wholesale fabric manufacturers, designer
fabrics, home decor fabrics, and just about
anything fashion related, all in less than one
square mile.
New York City is known as the fashion capital of
the world in part due to the over $15 billion in
annual revenues that are generated from local
textile businesses.
The Garment District is the epicenter for a number
of world renowned fashion designers - their global
production, showrooms, retail operations and
distribution is all controlled from The Garment
District. Many of the designers in the Garment
District make their exclusive fabrics available
solely to a small number of trusted fabric stores,
namely NyFashionCenterFabrics.com.
Due to the overwhelming number of fashion and
apparel companies in The Garment District, there
is a huge demand for first quality, high end
designer fabrics and apparel fabrics, which is the
primary reason why NyFashionCenterFabrics.com
is strategically located in the center of the
garment District.
History
In the mid 19th century, The Garment District first
began to shape when a group of tailors and
seamstresses started to produce uniforms for
sailors, work clothes for slaves and handmade
suits for businessmen. This created a growing
demand for uniform fabrics, shirting fabrics and
suiting fabrics. New York City was the only place
where there was a steady supply of exquisite
wool fabrics, linen fabrics, silk fabrics and cotton
fabrics which were being brought by explorers
from native lands. This combination of resources
and the rapidly growing population of New York
City fueled the explosive growth of the Garment
District which has carried on for decades.

THE HISTORY OF FABRIC AND TEXTILES

THE HISTORY OF FABRIC AND
TEXTILES
Textiles are defined as the yarns that are woven
or knitted to make fabrics. The use of textiles
links the myriad cultures of the world and defines
the way they clothe themselves, adorn their
surroundings and go about their lives. Textiles
have been an integral part of human daily life for
thousands of years, with the first use of textiles,
most likely felt, dates back to the late Stone Age,
roughly 100,000 years ago. However, the earliest
instances of cotton, silk and linen being to appear
around 5,000 BC in India, Egypt and China. The
ancient methods of manufacturing textiles, namely
plain weave, satin weave and twill, have changed
very little over the centuries. Modern
manufacturing speed and capacity, however, have
increased the rate of production to levels
unthinkable even 200 years ago.
Trade of textiles in the ancient world occurred
predominantly on the Silk Road, a winding route
across lower Asia that connected the
Mediterranean lands with the Far East. Spanning
over 5,000 miles and established during the Han
Dynasty in China around 114 BC, the Silk Road
was an integral part of the sharing of
manufactured goods, cultures and philosophies,
and helped develop the great civilizations of the
world. During the Middle Ages, simple clothing
was favored by the majority of people, while finer
materials such as silks and linens were the
trappings of royalty and the rich. During the 14th
century, however, advances in dyeing and
tailoring accelerated the spread of fashion
throughout Western Europe, and drastically
altered the mindset of both wealthy man and
commoner alike. Clothing and draperies became
increasingly elaborate over the next several
centuries, although production methods remained
largely unchanged until the invention of steam-
powered mechanized facilities during the
Industrial Revolution. From that point on, quality
textiles became available to the masses at
affordable prices.
Textiles can be derived from several sources:
animals, plants and minerals are the traditional
sources of materials, while petroleum-derived
synthetic fibers were introduced in the mid-20th
century. By far, animal textiles are the most
prevalent in human society, and are commonly
made from furs and hair. Silk, wool, and
pashmina are all extremely popular animal
textiles. Plant textiles, the most common being
cotton, can also be made from straw, grass and
bamboo. Mineral textiles include glass fiber, metal
fiber and asbestos. The recent introduction of
synthetic textiles has greatly expanded the array
of options available for fabric manufacturers, both
in terms of garment versatility and usability.
Polyester, spandex, nylon and acrylic are all
widely used synthetic textiles.
In addition to the multitude of textiles available
for use, there are many different methods for
creating fabrics from textiles. Weaving is
performed using a loom, typically a rectangular
frame on which strands of fibers are hung and
interlaced with other fibers. Knitting involves
interlacing strands of yarn with the use of a
needle, and is typically done by hand, while
weaving is largely mechanized. Lacing is
performed using a backing piece to create finer
fabrics with open holes throughout the piece.
Interlacing a yarn through an existing piece of
woven cloth results in a layer known as a pile,
which is prominent in the manufacture of carpets
and velvet. Finally, and by far the oldest
technique, is felting, which involves squeezing a
mat of fibers together in a liquid to create a
tangled, flat material.
Textiles can also be colored using a variety of
techniques, including weaving together fibers of
differing colors, bleaching to create a pure white
look, stitching colored yarn through existing
fabric, the use of resist dyeing, and many other
ways of printing directly onto finished fabric.
Modern dyeing methods can create fabrics of
almost any color or pattern imaginable.

GREY GSM VS FINISHED GSM

Grey GSM VS Finished GSM of knit fabric
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After receiving the yarn we knit the yarn in knitting machine for producing knit fabric. At this stage the fabric remains uncolored formed. We called this as Grey Fabric. Then we dye the grey fabric in dyeing winch (machine) as per our required color.

In this regards the please note that, GSM of the followings Grey fabric are not remain same as our require finished fabric GSM. Normally the GSM of grey fabric remains lower than the finished fabric. After knitting when we dye and washed the fabric then the GSM increase and come to near as our requirement. This increasement of GSM depends on fabric constructions & some knitting variables. Let's see an example

Say,
Fabric Construction: Single Jersey
Yarn Count : 30/s
Require GSM(finished): 145 GSM
Grey GSM : will be what?

As per practical experience we know for Single Jersey fabric, if we knit the fabric with 30/s yarn then the grey GSM  will increase 15% to 20% after dyeing and finishing.

So, if we need 145 GSM S/J fabric with 30/s
Then we should keep the

Grey GSM = 145 – (15 to 20%), supposed it the percentage will be 18 then
Grey GSM = 145 – 18%
Grey GSM = 119 GSM

So, now we know that, if we need 145 gsm single jersey fabric with 30/s yarn, then we should keep the GSM of grey fabric as 119.

Please find below the GSM different between Grey VS Finished for some more types of fabric.
  
For single jersey fabric:

If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 20% to 15% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 22% to 20% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 23% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 20/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 21% less from the finished Gsm
CALCULATION OF GSM
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Dear All,

GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.

There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric

First formula is as under:

               Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex
GSM =    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
                                               1000 X 1000

aNd

                WPI X CPI X SL(mm)
GSM =    ---------------------- X 0.9155
                         Count(Ne)

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH (WPI):

We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no of total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch.

CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH (CPI):

We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.

MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH (SL mm):

Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.

MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:

We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn.

The equation we followed is as follow:

                 N x L x 453.6
Count =   ----------------
                 Wt x 36 x 840
Where,

N   = number of yarn in bundle.
L    = length of yarn.
Wt  = weight of yarn.

Another formula is the following:

                    Ks x Tex
GSM =   ---------------------
              Stitch length (mm)

Where,
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below:

              GSM x Stitch length
Ks =     -----------------------------
                          Tex

How do calculate Kg from Yards (Knit fabric)
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From this post we will learn how to calculate Kgs from Yards.

Say,

Fabric length  - 3.3611 yards ( 121 ")
Fabric Width - 45 "
Fabric Gsm - 140

Rules:

= Fabric length X Fabric width X GSM / 1550 / 1000

= 121" X 45" X 140 /1550 / 1000

= 762300 /1550 /1000

= 0.49180645161 kgs (weight of the followings fabric)

Hope above information will help you

The Fabric of Everyday Life

The fabric of everyday life

The enduring importance of fabric in our everyday lives -- for clothing, furnishings, symbolic communication, and commerce -- is underscored by the study of historic cloth. And, conversely, when we exploit our own experience to imagine ancient cloth artifacts as they were used in the past, then our understanding of the everyday concerns of past lives is greatly enhanced.

Several broad categories useful for the consideration of textiles in everyday life are listed below. They lead to more specific comments, which may serve as a prelude or guide to viewing the Historic Textiles from Karanis presented in this virtual exhibition.

The Importance of Fabric

The importance of fabric

Fabric has been an integral part of everyday life since prehistoric times. It serves a variety of purposes because it is such a flexible medium. Cloth can be wrapped tightly or draped loosely, woven to one shape or knitted to stretch and conform to changing shapes, or pieced together and combined with other materials to create items as different as rag dolls and tents.